TRAVEL writer Ron Smith takes the road to discovery this time to Toledo in Spain, a labyrinth of old streets and alleys, narrow lanes and squares, which with its cathedral and castle, a link to a famous artist, opens the door to a fascinating history and culture. It also boasts the largest vineyard in the world and of course superb wines and food...

LUZERN (pronounced "lute-zern", not "loose sern" as we so often say) is such a picture-postcard pretty town; it is no wonder that it has been popular with tourists for a couple of hundred years.